Why take a wine tour in the Loire in 2012

The pretty village of Le Thoureil yesterday - a 10 minute walk from our home

What can you expect from the Loire?  First and foremost - the river itself.  The last 'wild river' in France, the Loire is 629 miles long (over 1000km).  Wide and shallow, it was the main means of transport in days gone by with all manner of boats carrying everything from textiles, charcoal, stone, sand and of course wine dominating the water before the railway came to the region in 1849.  The levy on the North side keeps it under control during the winter months (something that was introduced by Henry II in the 12th Century).  Although it still floods from time to time, the river could reach a width of 7km before this time.  If you come in from Paris on the train, don't expect to see vineyards as you reach Angers.  There are no vines planted between Angers and Saumur on the North of the river as the land is far too rich.  Instead you'll see flowers, maize, pears, apples and quinoa.

The river at Le Thoureil early morning in April 2011

The river at Le Thoureil February 2012 - a very different scene

All over the region you'll find beautiful architecture. Homes are built from local tuffeau limestone which was quarried over the centuries and also used to build the great chateaux of the region leaving thousands of kilometres of tunnels today used for the storage of sparkling wine (the Loire is France's second biggest producer of sparkling wine after Champagne).  In Angers the working slate mine provides the roof tiles that are so characteristic of the region.  

Each tile is individually hand cut and attached with copper nails on this historic building 

What about the vineyards?  Well, you can expect to find small estates that are often family run, unpretentious, unglamourous but real and welcoming.  Don't look for wineries with restaurants attached - with one or two rare exceptions they don't exist here in the Loire.  What you will find is a shared passion for wine, a welcoming smile and a relaxed attitude.  They don't call it la douceur Angevine for nothing - this expression sums up life in the Loire valley.  Big marketing budgets and fancy tasting rooms are unusual here but you can expect to be guided by the owner, the owners son, daughter or even grandma.  

Mathieu Vallée - owner of Chateau Yvonne in Saumur in Champigny.  He makes just 3 superb wines

Eddy Oosterlinck-Bracke makes what he calls 'noble sweet wines' in the Coteaux du Layon 

Sometimes you'll find something a little special for a different reason.  A beautiful chateau, great wine and a friendly owner who is happy to show you around and give you a glimpse into their life.  

Beautiful Chateau du Petit Thouars close to Chinon - a historic place that is also a home and makes great wines

 Chateau de Pimpéan - an ongoing restoration project, a stunning 15th century chapel, a lovely wine and a gregarious owner Maryse Tugendhat who loves to show visitors around

Last year we welcomed people from America, Russia, England, Holland, Ireland, Scotland, New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, Sweden and France.  Some came for a relaxing day out - a change of pace from Paris, some were passing on their way down South.  Some had an in-depth knowledge of wine and others were complete beginners but they all shared the same passion and interest for a region that is the most diverse wine-making region in France.

Tasting a range of wines from the Loire valley with visitors from the US, Australia & UK

So, if you're contemplating a visit to France this year, why should you come and spend a day with us?  Wine is something that can be enjoyed by everyone.  No need to be an expert to take pleasure in spending a day here in the Loire valley.  So many subjects are touched by the business of wine - geology, geography, biology, chemistry, history, gastronomy. Sharing a glass of wine is the result of all of these things and we are lucky enough to be able to share them with you.

Enjoying an aperitif in the garden before lunch

What can you expect during a one day wine tour with us? We pride ourselves on providing a unique and personal wine experience and by the end of the day you'll have tasted a wide range of wines from a number of different appellations in the Loire valley.  You'll have a good understanding of French wine labelling, the different grape varieties planted in the region and the differences between them. You'll have enjoyed a home cooked 3 course lunch in our delightful barrel maturation cellar and have had the chance to retaste all the wines you have tasted during the morning with food.  You'll have the chance to enjoy one high quality wine visit during the afternoon. Best of all you'll have met other like minded people from other parts of the world who are here for the very same reason  - to have a lovely day out in the beautiful Loire countryside, taste some great wines, discover some local dishes and meet some great people.

Enjoying a relaxing lunch in the cellar with guests from Chicago

And why us rather than other people?  Well  - only our clients can tell you that.  I can tell you that we won't rush you - your time with us will be relaxed and leisurely.  We don't drive you around lots of  different wineries in one day (in fact we often have difficulty persuading our clients to leave the lunch table in order to meet our rendezvous in the afternoon!).  le tasting room is our home and we take great pleasure in welcoming you here as our guests.  Don't be mislead though - at the end of the day you'll have tasted a range of wines from no less than 7 different producers and have the opportunity to buy them from us at cellar door prices so whether you'd like to take a bottle or two back to enjoy during your stay in France or are looking to source wines for a party, event or wedding, we can help.

We've 25 years wine trade experience between us, speak good French and work closely with a large number of top quality producers in the region.

So, if you're like us and appreciate fine wine, great food and good company, we'd love to welcome you here; just a stone's throw from the river Loire.

The TGV offers an excellent service from Paris.  What's more; we'll collect you and deliver you back to the station inAngers for your return journey to the capital.

Whether you're a complete beginner or a dedicated oenophile; we have something to offer.  Don't take our word for it - see what our previous clients have to say about us on Tripadvisor and here are a couple of recent testimonials taken from our website.

'I had the most fantastic time with you, Nigel, and other guests, and on our day out and about having lunch and visiting wineries on our own!   It was simply the most perfect experience—the wine, the food, and the company.  Your home was true perfection- and I enjoyed listening to your experiences in the wine industry of the Loire Valley, and how you are trying to market and promote various vineyards in the region.    I would recommend this experience to anyone who enjoys learning about wine, eating great food (Cathy is a great cook!) and meeting new people!'  Amy Chicago Dec 2011

Thank you for giving us the very day we were looking for, the lunch was so very fresh and tasty and what a magnificent setting. As for the wines of the Loire I now have a much greater understanding and received an education in the history and wine styles of the region. Thank you for tailoring the day to suit those requests.

Your knowledge of 20 years in the wine industry clearly shows through during the day and the insight you have with the winemakers gave us a true feel of the Loire wines and the beautiful region.

The whole day was fabulous, Kate, Miles and I really had a great time and came away much better informed about the region and its wines.' Jonathan - Australia 2011

www.letastingroom.com

Le Patio Saumur - a delightful B & B in the centre of town

We stayed at this B & B in Saumur on Thursday night. Located on the river front just next to the Hotel Anne d'Anjou, this B & B is a delightful find. Rooms are accessed via an old stone spiral staircase and are quirkily furnished with antiques and brocante finds. There is a pretty hidden courtyard, a lovely place to share a glass of wine early evening or have breakfast in the summer. A little wine bar is also part of the business and is for residents only - this is where breakfast is taken in the morning during the cooler months.

La chambre Loire - one of three bedrooms and two suites

View from the bedroom window over the river

Pretty courtyard where you can enjoy breakfast during the summer months

The little wine bar where we enjoyed a digestif after an excellent dinner in town

Le Patio Saumur
31 Quai Mayaud
Saumur
02 41 51 20 22
06 09 94 84 55
www.lepatiosaumur.fr

Update on our vines

We have put up the trellising for the vines we planted last year. The small row of Chenin will be trained to Guyot Simple with one cane and one spur, supported by wires, and the Cabernet Franc vines will be bush trained to three short canes with a couple of buds each.

Buds have burst and are growing at an alarming rate. Although we are not quite out of the period when frost can be a serious threat, for us, it's the slugs that are causing trouble, nibbling away at the tender new shoots that are still quite close to the ground.

This year's task is to nurture the vines to a sensible working height and to develop their shape. They may provide fruit this year but we will remove any bunches that do appear to encourage the vine to put down strong roots and concentrate upon establishing themselves rather than producing grapes.

Winter scene in the Loire

An Anjou vineyard in winter. With the temperature at minus 8 today, I feel for those who are pruning and am mindful that I need to buy some thermals as I too will be pruning in a couple of weeks time.

Pruning in the Loire valley

Now that grapes are gathered in, leaves are starting to fall and winter is approaching, vignerons are beginning to think about pruning the vines in readiness for next year's harvest.

As a rule, it's better to wait until the vines are completely dormant before pruning as the sap will have receded and generally it's better for them to have a period of complete rest with a good dose of cold weather to kill off any lingering bugs and diseases. In some vineyards, pruning begins within a couple of weeks of vintage - leaves still clinging to the canes. I'm rather critical of this practice as when it comes to producing quality wine, delaying pruning is one of the criteria. Not only does it give the vines a chance to rest but the later the pruning, the later the vine bursts back into action the following season. Stands to reason in a cool climate region such as the Loire that this makes sense - less chance of problems around budburst and flowering, decreased risk of frost damage at a tender stage of development. But, the reality of pruning here in the Loire is a different issue.

A couple of years ago an initiative was launched to encourage the unemployed to be trained by competent vignerons in the art of pruning. I know of several producers locally who embraced the idea. A skilled pruner arrives with a team of 'trainees' and they prune together. The problem with this is that not all trainees have the 'eye' required to make the right decisions. The end result is a badly pruned vineyard and while the vines will continue to produce fruit (like most plants, vines bounce back), they often produce too much, the fruiting zone can be in the wrong place, the crown of the vine too high.

So, in an ideal world, a competent team will sweep through the vineyard during the winter (typically end of December onwards) but the reality is often far from this ideal. Vignerons firstly have to find willing seasonal employees who have the ability to make the right decisions and ensure that pruning is finished in time. Which is where we come back to early pruning - many producers start early because they don't have enough people to wait until the time is right.

It has become increasingly difficult to find skilled labour when it comes to pruning vines in the region. Methods are dicated by the appellation and it does take a certain amount of skill to make the 'right cut'. It requires quick and efficient analysis of the vines one at a time, moving quickly through the vineyard.

We'll be doing some pruning in Anjou in the new year so will take some precise before and after shots and post them on the blog. Until then - we'll be holding off. Maybe you'd like to come and join us in the Spring and have a look for yourself.

The politics of picking

Feeling good today as we finished the harvest at Chateau de Pimpéan after what has been a hard but enjoyable week. This has been my first full harvest since we moved to France (Nigel's 2nd) and it has been good to participate on equal terms with other members of the team rather than just dipping in for the odd half day here and there.

The beginning of the day is always hard - it takes a while to warm up and get your eye in on the bunches, cutting quickly and moving on swiftly. Two members of the team tackle a row each, one on either side. You notice that some people work together better than others - chances are they have harvested together before, second guessing each other's moves well in advance. Cuts and grazes are fairly common for the first couple of days.

So this is where the competitive edge starts to kick in. As we move down the rows in teams of two, glances are cast to check who is going the fastest and who is lagging behind. It's irritating when you come in last and feels great when you finish first. And then we have the issue of emptying the buckets. Cries of 'seau' come thick and fast - just as you've got down on your knees again to collect some bunches hanging near the ground, the guy carrying the hod is after you again!

But any pressure you feel comes from yourself. In reality, the team works well together. Those that finish first come back and help those coming in behind. That way, everyone starts a new row at the same time. Sometimes you're first and sometimes you're last - it depends upon the time of day, how you're feeling and if your knees and back are bearing up to the strain well that day.

And what a great feeling at the end of each day to come away knowing that you've participated in one of the most important periods of the vineyard year. That cup of English tea has never tasted so good nor has the glass of two of wine in the evening after a long hot soak in the bath.

Tomorrow is our post-harvest party. Maryse will be lighting the old bread oven at Chateau de Pimpéan and we will be celebrating with a glass or two and some fouaces. We thought we'd take along a couple of bottles of Breaky Bottom from England to start off the evening. Will let you know how we get on.

Brocante on the river Loire at Le Thoureil

A few photos from the Brocante at Le Thoureil a 10 minute walk from our house. The weather stayed fine although was damp and rather foggy which kept the crowds away. Fewer stalls than normal and less people attending made it a gentle experience today. No apologies for including yet another picture of a boat on the river - the colours seem to differ so much as the seasons change that I just can't resist.

Logis Saint Mexme- a great chambre d'hotes in Chinon

We spent a couple of days in and around Chinon last week and had the good fortune to stay at the Logis Saint Mexme. Overlooking the Collégiale de St Mexme, it's a beautiful 15th century former canonial property owned by Héléne and Jean Michel Craye in Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, just a 5 minute walk from the centre of Chinon.

We opted for la Suite Saint Mexme which has a bedroom, contemporary bathroom (with separate loo) and it's own large living room which overlooks the Collégiale. Antiques mix with contemporary upholstery to provide a warm, unstuffy atmosphere. A large collection of books in both English and French, both classic and modern, games for those happy to stay put, and a range of CD's to suit every possible musical taste add those finishing touches. You can make yourself a cup of coffee in the room or pop out into the corridor where Héléne has installed a small fridge stocked with bottled water, juices and beers.



A super breakfast is included in the cost (83€ for two per night for the suite, 67€ for the double room) and is served in the dining room on the ground floor where the windows open up onto the pretty walled garden. We enjoyed fresh fruit salad with yoghurt and a selection of patisseries (pain au chocolat, brioche, croissant) and breads ranging from sweet white to seedy baguette and earthy campagne. Héléne also provides a good variety of cereals for those that can find enough space! Of course, a large jug of tea, coffee or chocolate accompanies everything as well as orange juice.


We spent a couple of hours reading and relaxing while working our way through the CD's before wandering in to the centre of town for dinner at Les Années 30. The perfect place to retreat to after a 'hard' day talking business with local winemakers.

So, if you're planning a visit to Chinon and are looking for a great place to stay, we can't recommend it highly enough. You need to book well in advance as there are only 2 rooms. We were extremely lucky to find the suite available when we called. Héléne speaks good English despite her protests to the contrary and is a lively and charming hostess who is keen to help all her guests make the most of their stay. She is on hand to give recommendations for restaurants and wineries to visit and give advice where needed.

It's only an hour away from us, so why not combine a couple of nights in Chinon with a day in the countryside at le tasting room learning all about the wines of the region.

See the website for better photos than ours and call or email directly for availability.

Héléne et Jean Michel Craye
www.logis-saint-mexme.fr
Losig Saint Mexme
115 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau
37500 Chinon

Amboise

A few shots taken in Amboise recently. The views from the chateau are spectacular on a sunny day. Although busy during the height of the season, it's a lovely place to go for the day and there are plenty of pavement cafés and restaurants to choose from.

Looking down from the chateau to the pavement restaurants and cafés

Chez Bruno - a small restaurant we often frequent that serves a simple but tasty lunch menu

View from the chateau

Magnificent wisteria in full flower on the way up to the chateau

View of the chateau from inside the grounds

Streets in the pedestrianized area

Changes in the Appellation System

As from this year's vintage we won't be seeing the term Vin de Pays on French wine labels any more.

A new system is being introduced to help current Vin de Pays producers to be more competitive with existing Appellations in the larger more well known areas. From the 2009 vintage we will now see the term IGP on the label - Indication Géographique Protegée.

In addition, wines blended from more than one region (currently bottled under Vin de Table) will become known as Vin de France. They will be able to add the grape variety and a vintage date on the label which is currently not permitted.

Le Thoureil

A few photos of our nearest village - a 10 minute stroll from the house, taken by Piers who spent the day with us here at le tasting room during Le Mans last week with a group of friends.

Our farming neighbours grow artichokes - we pass this field on our stroll down to the river.

Up the hill and we reach the view that always delights us - again our neighbours vines overlooking the Loire. Breathtaking at any time of year and always different according to the season.

A little further on and we discover the terraces running alongside the back of the beautiful houses of Le Thoureil. This terrace belongs to one of the most beautiful houses in the village and was Dutch owned for many years. Wealthy merchants based themselves in Le Thoureil and set up trading points, 'comptoirs' set high above their houses allowing them to survey all they owned.

Dropping down to the river itself we walk along the water side, admiring the arthitecture and boats on the river.

After a relaxing day's tasting and lunching in the cellar this is a perfect way to end the day, a walk in the late afternoon sunshine (stopping for a hard earned beer in the café along the way). Thank you to Piers for these fantastic photos.

If you would like to discover wine with us - why not come and join us for a day here at le tasting room, in the heart of the Loire valley only a 10 minutes stroll from this beautiful village.

Savennières

le tasting room was in Savennières yesterday - one of the most prestigious yet least known appellations here in the Loire valley. Close to the city of Angers, the appellation was created in 1957 and applies to approximatley 145 hectares across 3 communes; Savennières, Bouchemaine and la Possonnière, all located on the right bank of the river. There are two smaller appellations within this that are famous in their own right, La-Roche-aux-Moines (33ha) and La Coulée-de-Serrant(7ha).

Although it is possible that the Romans had a keen eye on the area, vines were probably first exploited by the monks and those at Coulée de Serrant were planted by the Cistercians in 1130 making 2009 the 879th vintage at this historic vineyard. Planted on exposed hillsides perched over the river Loire in shallow soils largely made up of sandy shale, the vines are influenced by the Loire and storms usually bypass them falling on the other side of the river. This contributes to the area's ability to produce dry whites from exceedingly mature, ripe grapes. These wines are 'vins de gardes' - wines for keeping, that improve, develop, mature, gain complexity and elegance with age. Not that they can't be enjoyed young - we buy from a relative newcomer in the region Loic Mahe who makes fabulous wines that are dangerously easy to enjoy in their youth but evolve and take on new characteristics in the cellar.

A large majority of growers in the region practise organic or bio-dynamic viticulture, influenced by Nicolas Joly, probably the most well known advocate of bio-dynamics in the region and indeed in France. Whether one believes in it or not, it's certainly a joy to see the spring flowers growing between the rows, to observe the birds and butterflies appearing, to see the bees buzzing around. It has to be a good thing to preserve the surrounding environment and not to spray off vegetation with chemicals and pesticides, to allow the natural order of things, for natural predators to fend off those that damage the vine.

There are 4 loops that wend their way around the Savennières vineyards ranging from 5km to 21km (between one and a half and five hours). The circuit we walked was the 5km Les Coulées. It starts in the village of Savennières, takes you up and through the forest to the Petites Coulées where the vineyards are steeply terraced and then back around to the village again. The last 2km of the walk is not pretty (much of it walking alongside the railway line by Behuard), so we have invested in an OS map to find a prettier route back.

On the way up we diverted off plan to visit Loic's vineyard at Les Fougerais. We currently have his 05, 06 and 07 vintages. His wines show wonderful fruit aromas in their youth (notes of lemon, mandarine, grapefruit), puntuated by hints of brioche, wax and lanolin. As they age they take on complexity, the primary fruit aromas receding and the secondary ones coming in to play. They are quite modern in style - a long way from the very oxidised style of Savennières (that we also love) but they too take on this mature, appealing quality that is a little reminiscent of beeswax polish with honey. Loic's top wine - Sectillis Terra 2005 (Essence de la Terre du Gué d'Orger) is a magnificent wine aged for 18 months in futs de chene. It has incredible depth, weight of flavour and will last a couple of decades if we can persuade ourselves not to drink it before then.

Having built up an appetite we were hoping to find somewhere good for lunch. This can be surprisingly difficult in the Angers area, especially outside Angers itself. Amusingly, there was a coach parked in the car park in Savennières itself offering a set menu for 13€ - I would have taken the gamble but there was a distinct lack of support from everybody else, so we headed in to Angers for an excellent 2 course menu at Chez Remi on Boulevard Foch.

Moderation & Bottle Sizes

Reading Robert Joseph's post on bottle sizes prompted me to think more carefully about the issue this morning. Most wines these days are automaticaly bottled in the standard 75cl bottle (the size of a standard lungful of air for the average French glass blower long ago as explained by RJ). As with many traditions attached to the production of wine - history seems to drag its feet, keeping progression firmly away from the door in an attempt to retain what? The romance, pleasure, correctness of wine?

We are increasingly under pressure to moderate our alcohol intake with each piece of new research indicating that consumption is linked to longevity. That I can limit my wine intake to half a glass or less a day (the level required to increase my life expectancy by 5 years according to the latest report), is unlikely, nigh impossible, but I am increasingly aware that what I drink affects my health and I have started to make more of an effort to limit my own consumption, be it having one or two days off the wine altogther each week (not always successful) or choosing a 50cl bottle in preference to a 75cl. The 50cl bottle is not widely available - we regularly drink Couly-Dutheil's Chinon Les Gravières which does come in this size. It's a useful size at lunchtime between friends if we just want a small glass and it also moderates our own consumption in the evening when chances are we have had an aperitif before dinner and would like some red with the main course and cheese but not a full bottle.

But, I know there are problems with these smaller bottles, the 37.5cl in particular. Over the past 20 years I have worked with a number of wholesalers who specialise in supplying wine to the UK hotel and restaurant trade. There is little demand for smaller sizes and those who do put pressure upon the suppliers to provide them, rarely take the quantities they predict so the wholesalers get left with supplies of halves that age quickly and can't be sold. The lack of turnover of these halves in restaurants (except for the most enlightened) means they are generally a bit tired and don't reflect the normal quality that one comes to expect. Vintages move on giving a disparity between bottles and halves and so we go on. This is where the 50cl bottle would be a distinct advantage.
Personally I feel having a good choice of halves is a distinct bonus - to have the chance to try a different wine with each course without having to commit to purchasing a 75cl bottle gives the freedom to suit the wine to the dish and does not leave one feeling obliged to finish a bottle rather than choose something more complementary. I am encouraged to see more restaurants offering a better selection of wines by the glass but this too requires strict stock rotation and quality control (I think back to ordering a very expensive glass of Bordeaux in a chic London Hotel a couple of years ago - clearly nobody else had ordered it for days and it was oxidised and flat).
On the subject of moderation, I'd like to see pubs and restaurants serving wine in carafes rather than passing over an absurdly full 175cl or even worse a 250cl glass that makes me feel daunted before I've even taken the first sip. Pouring a small measure of wine into a large glass offers many benefits - the ability to enjoy the aroma before tasting, the pleasure of pouring a little more as and when, the capacity to keep the wine at its correct serving temperature. And I'd like to get away from the notion that giving people a full glass is 'generous', that anything less is being stingy. This is something that happens in social situations - it's not as if the bottle is going to run away, glasses can be regularly topped up even if only a little is served at a time.
I know the practicalities of change are often so much more complicated than this, but I am convinced that we, as educators and professionals in the trade, have a responsibilty to lead the way, to educate and provoke change as best we can.
At le tasting room, we deliver the WSET Foundation and Intermediate Certificates. A significant and increasing part of the syllabus is devoted to social and professional responsibility. Whether we like it or not, society has a problem with moderation. While I can't claim to have all the answers, I'll attempt to keep myself in check and make it my job to assist others in doing the same thing. Restaurateurs, hoteliers, producers, supermarkets and educators all have a role to play.

Rubissow Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa Valley

It's a long time since we enjoyed a bottle of wine from the Napa Valley and this was given to us by an English friend who worked over in California for a year doing wine analysis. She assisted in the making of the wine, making it doubly interesting to us, so we were pleased last night to partner it with a 12 hour shin of beef cooked with 50 cloves of garlic and a bottle of red wine. The beef also contained lots of cracked black pepper so choosing a wine that would complement these extrememly strong flavours was a hard task. Anything too tannic would have clashed with the levels of heat coming from the pepper and anything less concentrated would have been swept away by the intensity of flavour. So, this led us to the Rubissow Cabernet Sauvignon 2005.
Rubissow Vineyard is the southern-most vineyard in the Mt Veeder AVA, bordering Carneros AVA. Planted at 600-860 ft above sea level, sustainable farming practices are used with small yields, crop thinning and winter cover crops.
To the wine itself - 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.5% Merlot and 1.5% Cabernet Franc, unfined and unfiltered. Upon pouring a sample, the concentration is immediately evident. With a deep, deep rich ruby colour and a touch of brown at the edges it's almost impossible to see through it. On the nose the first thing that is apparent is ripe, ripe fruit with notes of plum, chocolate and blackberry. On the palate, vanilla comes in to play from the 20 months in oak, and the tannins (although evident) are soft. It's very intense and long on the finish. It absolutely needs food and was more than a match for the intense flavours of the beef. At around $75 or £50 a bottle, this is no every day wine. A real departure from our normal drinking style but one which we enjoyed very much.